TOMAR, THE TEMPLAR CITY

Tomar is a small city in central Portugal, about 140 km north of Lisbon and just over 78 km south of Coimbra. With just over 20,000 inhabitants, Tomar would go unnoticed were it not for its historical and cultural importance. Therefore, tourism is currently the city's most important economic activity, mainly due to the Convent of Christ, designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.

But beyond the convent, there are other unmissable tourist attractions that you can visit on a day trip from Lisbon, even if you only have one day. Worth visiting, for example, are the Church of Saint John the Baptist [São João Batista, in Portuguese] and the Church of Saint Mary of the Olive Groves [Santa Maria dos Olivais] (where the remains of Gualdim Pais, Templar Grand Master and founder of the city are located) and the Chapel of Our Lady of the Conception [Nossa Senhora da Conceição], which was built as a royal pantheon for King John III, the Pious (1502-1557), eldest son of Manuel I, the Fortunate, and responsible for the effective colonization of Brazil, through the creation of hereditary captaincies and the general government. Other attractions are the Convent of Saint Francis [São Francisco], which has a Mannerist chapel, the Convent of Saint Iria [Santa Iria] and the Chapel of Saint Gregory [São Gregório], with a circular architectural structure.

My time in Tomar was fantastic, and I'll likely return to this beautiful and welcoming town at a slower pace. But I reiterate that it's possible to enjoy a beautiful city tour, even if you only have one day. My stay actually began with an overnight stay, through Airbnb, on Rua Miguel Maria Ferreira, right across from the charming Jardim Escola João de Deus [Saint John of God School Garden], about 500 meters from the Nabão River, which practically bisects the city.

The next day, after a hearty breakfast, although the obvious destination was the Convent of Christ, there were some unmissable attractions along the way. Turning right onto Alameda Um de Março [March 1st Mall], on the modern side of the city, we reached Rua Marquês de Pombal , formerly Rua Larga [Wide Street], a sort of main corridor leading to the city's historic center, on the west bank of the Nabão River . Marquês de Pombal also functions as a kind of time tunnel, as we leave behind the city of the 20th and 21st centuries as we pass buildings from the 15th to 19th centuries on both sides of this approximately 250-meter avenue.

Above, Alameda 1 de Março and, below, Rua Marquês de Pombal

Marquês de Pombal Street, in turn, gives access to Serpa Pinto Street , as soon as we cross the Ponte Velha [Old Bridge] over the Nabão River. From at least the 12th century until 1890, Serpa Pinto Street was called " A Corredoura" [The Runner]. In Portuguese toponymy, the word means a relatively wide passageway that provides access to prime locations. There is also a strong tradition in Tomar that this street was the place where the Knights Templar tested their horses and practiced games in preparation for war. It is interesting to note that, despite more than 130 years since the City Council decreed the name change, the population continues to call Serpa Pinto "Corredoura." Just as they continue to call Marquês de Pombal "Larga".

Another notable fact is that, just as in medieval times, when the Corredoura was of central importance to Tomar as the route knights took to reach Tomar Castle, the current Serpa Pinto is among the city's most important landmarks, now serving as a commercial corridor. Now a pedestrian street, it sits right in the heart of the Historic Center and is home to all kinds of businesses, including shops, regional restaurants, cafes, hotels, and guesthouses.

Old Bridge, over the Nabão River, at the end of Marquês de Pombal Street and, below, Serpa Pinto Street

One of the most iconic spots on this street is the famous Café Paraíso , an elegant, century-old café where you can experience a part of Tomar's history. Founded in 1911, Café Paraíso became a meeting place for illustrious figures of the time and a source of inspiration for writers and artists. Also worth a visit is the Confeitaria Estrelas de Tomar , the perfect place to try some of the city's best traditional sweets, such as the irresistible "fatias de Tomar" [Tomar slices] "queijinhos de Tomar" [Tomar little cheeses] and "Kiss Me Quickly."

Also not to be missed is Café Santa Iria , founded in the 1970s in the building of the former Convent of Santa Iria , in the then-center of the Templar city. Besides offering a wide-ranging menu of sweet and savory dishes, an extensive selection of sandwiches and baguettes, quiches, salads, and various types of toast, Café Santa Iria is also famous for serving a typical Tomar drink, known as Mouchão dos Templários [the small island of the Templars] or Segredo do Vigário [the vicar's secret]. Invented by Francisco Gonçalves Vicar, it is undoubtedly the most popular drink in Tomar. The idea, according to family tradition, was to create something that combined the poetry of wine with the freshness of beer, with an exotic and light flavor.

For the curious (like me), mouchão, in Portuguese from Portugal, is a word used to describe a small river island where some native vegetation grows. But don't ask me why the drink has this name...

Leaving Serpa Pinto behind, we arrive at Praça da República , measuring approximately 300m², home to some of the city's most interesting landmarks. On the west side stands the Town Hall (or City Hall) – a combination of what would be the City Hall and the City Council in Brazil and other federative republics. The building was constructed in the early 16th century, during the reign of King Manuel I, and served as the Royal Palace, the local seat of government during the monarchy. Before its construction, during the reign of Prince Henry the Navigator, this site housed a public market. Architecture experts point out that, although built by order of King Manuel I, the building today lacks any of the characteristics of the Manueline architectural style. This is because in the second half of the 16th century, the building underwent extensive renovations in keeping with the then-fashionable style known as Mannerism. However, those who, like me, enjoy observing every detail of a historic building will still find the royal symbols of King Manuel I throughout the building, such as the Royal Coat of Arms, the Armillary Sphere, and the Cross of Christ. Inside the building, the exhibition room and the grand hall, whose ceiling bears the city's ancient coat of arms, are worth highlighting.

On the east side stands the Church of Saint John the Baptist . It is not known exactly when the original church was built, but it is believed that King Gualdim Pais, in the 12th century, ordered its construction, at the same time as the Templar Castle. Reconstruction of this church began in 1430 under the command of King Henry, but it was during the reign of King Manuel I, in 1467, that the work began that gave the Church of Saint John the Baptist its current characteristics, in late Gothic style, completed in the early 16th century . It is a rectangular building with portals decorated in the Manueline style, structured in three naves, and with a bell tower that still supports a 16th-century clock. Like the Town Hall building, the church also features symbols of King Manuel I, both on the tower and pulpit, and on the west and north portals. Inside, the highlights are the decorated capitals of the nave's columns and the numerous panels painted by Gregório Lopes (circa 1530), one of the finest Portuguese Renaissance artists and painter to Kings Manuel and John III. Another highlight is the baptistery at the base of the tower, which houses a triptych depicting the life of Christ, attributed to the school of the early 16th-century Flemish painter Quentin de Metzys.

On the south side stands the D. Maria da Silveira Palace , a Mannerist-style building with long facades, the entire decorative element concentrated on the main façade. The palace belonged to D. João de Sousa Silveira, who was alcaide-mor (a position formerly similar to mayor) of Tomar. Later, it passed into the hands of the Municipal Services (water, sewage, and urban cleaning) and was subsequently acquired by the Alves Casquilho family. I highlight the cornice and cyma, with gargoyles in the shape of fish heads and pig heads.

Finally, in the center of the square stands a statue of the Templar master D. Gualdim Pais (1118-1195), the city's founder. Born in Amares, in the Braga region in the north of the country, he was a squire to D. Afonso Henriques, the first king of Portugal, and fought alongside him against the Moors, eventually being knighted by the king on the battlefield of Ourique in 1139. He later became a crusader and Templar friar, leaving for Palestine, where he fought for five years. Upon his return in 1157, he was appointed Procurator of the Temple in Portugal, becoming its fourth Master since the religious order established itself in Soure in 1128.

From the center, we climbed up to the Templar Castle/Convent of Christ complex. The journey takes about 9 minutes on foot or just over 3 minutes by car. However, in my opinion, the most charming option is the Tuk Tuk from Tuk Lovers (http://www.tuklovers.com/).

Built over hundreds of years by some of the most important medieval masters and architects working in Brazil (Diogo de Arruda, João de Castilho, and Diogo de Torralva, among many others), this architectural complex includes a diverse array of buildings, almost all of which are of great heritage significance. Besides the castle, the Templar charola, the 15th-century cloisters, the Manueline church, and the Renaissance convent are also must-sees. Its current configuration reflects its successive functions and the architectural characteristics of the historical periods in which it was built. Its typical elements include Romanesque, Gothic, Manueline, Renaissance, Mannerist, and the so-called Chão style.

The Convent of Christ It has a long history, having been built in several stages between the 12th and 18th centuries. It is actually a complex of buildings dating back to 1160 and closely linked to the beginning of the Kingdom of Portugal and the role of the Knights Templar in this process. This architectural complex actually began with the Templar Castle , founded by D. Gualdim Pais in 1160, during the reign of D. Afonso Henriques, considered the first king of Portugal. The castle marked the border between the Christian kingdoms of the time, in an attempt to hold back the Moorish advance into the Iberian Peninsula.

Even today, the castle preserves memories of the time of these knightly monks who were committed to the reconquest, from the Christian kingdoms of the peninsula, of the territories under Muslim rule known as al-Andalus, a process only completed in 1492 with the conquest of the Emirate of Granada, southeast of present-day Spain. The complex comprised the walled citadel, the courtyard, and the military house located between the Master's House, the Alcazaba (fortress), and the knights' oratory (also known as the Rotunda). or Charola ).

But the Charola is only a small part of the architectural complex of the Convent of Christ, which also includes the former Templar Castle . It's worth exploring the convent slowly and attentively. At every corridor, turn, gallery, or room, you'll discover treasures, such as the representations on the Renaissance portal, the unique symbolism of the Manueline Window in the Chapter House, the architectural details of the Main Cloister, and the spaces dedicated to Templar rituals.

Photo by Jaimrsilva (2015)

Manueline window, probably designed by Diogo de Arruda and executed between 1510 and 1513 and, below, in sequence, images of the Cloister

In 1357, forty-five years after the extinction of the Knights Templar, the castle became the headquarters of the Order of Christ, created to replace it during the reign of King Dinis. The complex also includes several other additions, such as the Manueline church adjacent to the charola (a small chapel), the Renaissance convent, the Chapel of Our Lady of the Conception , and the Pegões Aqueduct, beyond the convent enclosure (or Mata dos Sete Montes) [Forest of the Seven Hills] below. This entire complex involved a costly investment, both in material resources and human labor, over several generations. It is important to note that, in addition to being a cultural and tourist space, the complex still remains a place of Catholic devotion.

For history buffs, as I am, it's important to note that in 1420, when Prince Henry the Navigator was appointed governor and administrator of the Order of Christ, the Order's governance became the responsibility of the Portuguese royal family. From then on, the Order was reconfigured, without distorting its original spirit of chivalry and crusade, but focused on a new objective: maritime expansion, which the Order itself began to finance. Under Prince Henry's direction, the knights gradually became navigators, while many navigators became knights of the Order of Christ. It was also during Prince Henry's reign that the order began to admit religious men with contemplative characteristics, coexisting with the knight-friars. The military house was then transformed into a convent, two cloisters were built, and the citadel was adapted to become the Prince's manor house.

During the reign of King Manuel I (1495-1521), the Order became deeply involved in the adventure of discovery, gaining immense power throughout the Portuguese Empire. The convent underwent significant renovation and expansion work, in keeping with the spirit of that monarch's reign. The Charola was expanded westward, with the construction of an imposing church, choir, and sacristy outside the walls (begun by Diogo de Arruda and completed by João de Castilho), implementing the decorative style known as Manueline.

Even more than King Manuel, King João III focused many of his initiatives on Tomar, aiming to make it a sort of "spiritual capital" of the kingdom, where he desired to be buried. Some historians believe this was the reason for the construction of the small Chapel of Our Lady of the Conception. Beginning in 1529, he ordered a profound reform of the Order of Christ and the construction of a new, large convent. The new building stands west of the castle and the Manueline nave.

Above, the bull Eximia Devotionis Affectus , issued by Pope Adrian VI on March 19, 1522, transferring the Mastership of the Order of Christ to King John III following the death of King Manuel. Below, the public instrument of possession of the governance and administration of the Order of Christ by King John III on July 23, 1523.

The complex acquired such importance that it was in the courtyard of the Convent of Christ church that the Cortes of 1581 took place, establishing the Iberian Union. Philip I (Philip II of Spain) was also acclaimed King of Portugal. As heir to the Portuguese throne, Philip I also became Master of the Order of Christ. Construction of the convent continued from his reign to that of his successors, with the completion of the cloister of King John III, the construction of the New Sacristy, and, to the south, the aqueduct, as well as several other modifications and additions.

Over the following centuries, several other modifications were made to the complex, particularly after 1834, when religious orders in Portugal were abolished and most of the Order of Christ's assets were expropriated and sold at auction. Only in the final decades of the 20th century did the Portuguese state regain full ownership of this historic complex, adapting it for cultural and tourist purposes.

From my perspective, Tomar Castle is a unique experience, one of those places where it's worth paying close attention to all the historical and architectural details, not to mention the beautiful surrounding landscape.

Opening hours between October and May are from 9:00 AM to 5:30 PM, with last admission at 5:00 PM, and from June to September, from 9:00 AM to 6:30 PM, with last admission at 6:00 PM. It is closed on January 1st, Easter Sunday, May 1st, and Christmas Day. Tickets cost €6.00, and children under 12 are free. Admission is free on the first Sunday of each month. Admission is also free for Portuguese residents every Sunday and on public holidays until 2:00 PM.

Returning to the lower part of the city, another must-see attraction is the Synagogue , located on Dr. Joaquim Jacinto Street, and the Old Jewish Quarter , in the historic center. In the Middle Ages, Tomar was a welcome destination for Jews from many parts of Europe, as evidenced by its majestic synagogue, built between 1430 and 1460, when the large Jewish community that would settle there began to arrive, forming the neighborhood that would become known as the Jewish Quarter. The peace of this community would be threatened in 1496, when King Manuel I forced Jews to leave Portugal or convert to Christianity. The synagogue was then sold and converted into a prison, operating as such until the mid-16th century, becoming a Christian chapel in the early 17th century. From the 19th century onward, the building was used as a granary and warehouse until it was purchased by Samuel Schwarz in 1923. In 1939, it was donated to the state and transformed into a Luso-Hebrew Museum. It's worth a visit! Opening hours: October to April, 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM and 2:00 PM to 6:00 PM. May to September, 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM and 3:00 PM to 7:00 PM. Closed: Mondays, January 1st, May 1st, and December 25th. Admission is free.

Another combined attraction that may be interesting, if you have time, is the Aquiles da Mota Lima Match Museum , one of the most original spaces in Tomar, located in the Convent of São Francisco , on Av. Gen. Bernardo Faria, in Várzea Grande, about 500m south of Praça da República.

The Convent was founded in 1624 by Franciscan friars from the religious community of Santa Cita. Built by order of King Philip III, it is a Mannerist-style temple, built around two cloisters. Construction of the Church of São Francisco began in 1628 and was completed in 1660. The church has a single central nave and features a painting by Domingos Vieira Serrão, a 16th-century painter from Tomar who was also responsible for the murals covering the Charola do Convento de Cristo, as well as several chapels and altars within the Convent. The Convent of São Francisco has two cloisters, one of which houses the Match Museum.

After the abolition of religious orders, the Convent of São Francisco passed to the Ministry of War and was transformed into a military battalion. Currently, guardianship of the Church and Convent of São Francisco is shared between the Third Order of Saint Francis, responsible for the temple grounds, and the Tomar City Council, responsible for the fence and the remaining convent grounds.

This museum houses a collection of over 60,000 matchboxes from all eras, brought from over 120 countries. It is the result of the dedication of Aquiles da Mota Lima, who over 27 years collected more than 43,000 matchboxes and wallets and approximately 16,000 matchbox labels from 127 countries. The collection, which was donated to the municipality of Tomar in 1980, opens a true portal to the past, rediscovering aspects of history, politics, literature, music, art, science, technology, sports, religion, and countless other aspects of human life. Admission is also free, and the museum is open Tuesday through Sunday, from 10:00 AM to 1:00 PM and from 3:00 PM to 6:00 PM, and is closed only on Mondays.

SURROUNDINGS

The surrounding area of Tomar also has attractions worth visiting if you have more time. One example is the Castelo de Bode , one of the largest in the country, offers a peaceful cruise with lunch on board or water sports. Opened in 1951, this dam, located 17.4 km southeast of Tomar, is part of theZêzere River basin , in the Central region (Beiras region) and the Médio Tejo subregion . It is located on the border of the municipalities of Tomar and Abrantes in the district of Santarém . One of the tallest structures in Portugal , it supplies water, primarily to Lisbon , generates electricity, provides flood protection, and is used for recreational activities. It is used for windsurfing , sailing , rowing , power boating , jet skiing , and also for sport fishing .

Another incredible attraction is Almourol Castle , located on a small island in the Tagus River, in the town of Praia do Ribatejo, in the municipality of Vila Nova da Barquinha, about 30 km from Tomar. Built on a granite elevation 18 m above sea level, on a small island 310 m long by 75 m wide, in the middle reaches of the Tagus River , just below its confluence with theZêzere River , at the time of the so-called Reconquista it was part of the so-called Tagus Line , now the Templar Tourist Region . It is one of the most representative examples of military architecture of the period, recalling both the origins of the Kingdom of Portugal and the Order of the Templars . With the extinction of theOrder of the Temple in 1311 , by order of Pope Clement V , during the reign of King Dinis (1279-1325), Almourol Castle became part of the heritage of theOrder of Christ (successor, in Portugal, of the Order of the Templars , as I mentioned before).

Although there is no consensus on the origin of human occupation of this islet, with records of several layers of distinct cultural remains over time, it is known that from the 8th century onwards it was occupied by Muslims and that in the 13th century the fortification already existed, which they called Al-morolan (high stone).

During the Christian Reconquest of the Iberian Peninsula , when the region was occupied by Portuguese forces, Almourol was conquered in 1129 by King Afonso Henriques (1112-1185), who handed it over to the Knights Templar , who were tasked with populating the territory between the Mondego and Tagus rivers and defending Coimbra, then the capital of Portugal. During this period, the castle was rebuilt, generally acquiring its current characteristics.

A victim of the 1755 earthquake , which I've already discussed here , the structure was damaged and subsequently underwent further alterations. During this period, and in keeping with the then-current philosophy of valuing works of the past in light of a poetic ideal vision, the castle was subjected to decorative alterations. In the second half of the 19th century, it was handed over to the Portuguese Army , which has maintained its guardianship to this day.

In conclusion: whatever your itinerary in Portugal, if it includes Lisbon, I think it's worth a detour to Tomar. And, if you want to continue your journey to explore this enchanting country a little further, the city is surrounded by other tempting attractions: the sanctuary of Fátima, 27km to the west; charming Castelo Branco; Nazaré and its gigantic waves, a world-class surfing paradise, 77km in the same direction; 123km to the northeast; charming Coimbra, 79km to the north; and Figueira da Foz, about 12km to the northwest. I chose Castelo Branco and, from there, to Coimbra, always by train, my favorite form of transportation. Plan your itinerary – but don't leave Tomar out.