ANDEAN LAKES VII: VILLARRICA

I would’ve liked to spend more time getting to know and enjoy Villarrica. In fact, I got the impression that the neighborhood and proximity to the charming Pucón ends up diverting the traveler's attention from its beauties. Moreover, as in Pucon, Lake Villarrica is omnipresent, but the Villarrica Volcano seen from there is even more enchanting.

Villarrica Volcano seen from Costanera Pucara

I have to confess that it was this proximity between the two cities that made me choose to stay in Pucón - and that's why I don't have any lodging experience there to report. The times I went there I came from San Martín de Los Andes, in Argentina, and not from another Chilean city, such as Temuco or Valdivia, for example. In this case, the mandatory route is first Pucón and then Villarrica. Pucón is, let's say, more "attractive", but I argue that Villarrica is not to be dismissed.

That said, let me introduce the city. Leaving Pucón, you arrive in Villarrica (the town, not the volcano!) by Ruta 199. The drive is about 25km, but the traffic is quite heavy in the summer season. If you're not driving, there are regular bus services offered by four companies: Andesmar, Pullman Bus, Condor and Igi Llaima Internacional. The first bus of the day leaves Pucón at 9:15 and the last one at 23:00. From Villarrica to Pucón, the first bus leaves at 6:05 and the last one at 21:35.

City Hall Building

With 45,000 residents, Villarrica has more than double the population of Pucón. Unlike its famous neighbor, Villarrica has more the look of a typical mid-sized town in the Chilean countryside and its economy doesn't seem to revolve around tourism. Still, the main entrance to the town and Villarrica has a lakeside promenade – the Costanera Pucara – that is very reminiscent of the parks in many country towns in Brazil, with many people out for a walk. But most of the commerce is concentrated on Av. Gerónimo de Alderete, about 1.5km from the Costanera.

Gerónimo de Alderete Ave. (photo: Google)

Villarrica is the sixth oldest city in Chile. It was founded during the period of the Spanish conquest in the 16th century, which is why it was expected to have a historic center with rich colonial architecture. However, due to constant battles that took place in the region between Spaniards, criollos and Mapuche natives, the city was destroyed and refounded several times. The current city only began to develop in 1883, which is why it has the characteristics of a contemporary society. This does not mean, however, that there are no attractions in the city.

Joel López's sculpture in front of the Town Hall, offering a harmonious view of the various cultures that founded the city.

Just like in Pucon, there you can also enjoy the most varied water sports activities, as well as hiking and exploring the surroundings of the city, as fantastic as those of the neighbor city and, let's say, more charming.

Apparently, the interest in this city as a tourist destination has increased a lot in recent years, to the point that it is already considered by some experts as one of the largest tourist centers in the region called Araucanía, having invested in the best implementations to receive visitors.

As I said before, the city extends along the western shore of Lake Villarrica, which is skirted by the Costanera, with an incredible view of the volcano and the crystal clear waters of the lake. Villarrica's Playa Grande, also called Playa Pucará, is popular with both locals and tourists, and is also popular with water sports enthusiasts. Its sands are dark (as the beaches of the Andean Lakes region usually are, due to their volcanic origin) and its waters are crystal clear. For rafting, Villarica offers the waters of the Toltén River. The lake and river are also very suitable for sport fishing. Several tourist agencies offer boat trips down the river with specialized guides, who encourage and help tourists to enjoy the piscosity of its waters, as well as its natural charms. For kayaking fans, some parts of the river are very interesting, while people who want to get started in this sport have the calm waters of Lake Villarrica at their disposal.

Hatchery of the Toltén River at Lake Villarrica

If you plan to rent a house and spend a long time relaxing, more than a week for example, Villarrica is the best choice. This is because it has more services and utilities than Pucón. It is not cheaper, but since it does not have as many good restaurants, you will spend less. I also apologize for not having significant tips on where and what to eat in Villarrica, since, as I said before, my passages there were always short.

Unfortunately, the only restaurant I would recommend, Restaurant Miralago, with first class cuisine, impeccable service and beautiful decoration, on the corner of General Korner and Bernardo O'Higgins, if we trust the street view of Google Maps, has been closed and the property is for sale. The same seems to have happened with Macondo Restaurant, recommended by friends, on Isabel Riquelme Avenue, overlooking the Toltén River. The only way is to do a search on sites like Tripadvisor or risk the search when you are already in town. I particularly enjoy it and have rarely regretted it seriously.

If you, like me, have a penchant for cultural activities, there are several interesting options. On the corner of Calle Pedro de Valdivia and Julio Zegers, for example, there is a market, the Mapuche Cultural Center Wenteche Mapu, which offers the most varied products of Mapuche culture and art. Nearby there is also a museum of Mapuche culture, the Museo Histórico y Arqueológico Municipal de Villarrica, on the second floor of the José Alejandro Pereira Municipal Library.

Mapuche music performance at Wenteche Mapu

The Costanera Avenue, inaugurated at the end of 2009, which borders much of Lake Villarrica, from the new bridge to the exit to Pucón, is also a beautiful attraction. In a walk of about 1.3km, you can contemplate the stunning beauty of the lake and the Villarrica Volcano (and, a little further away, the Quetrupillán) or go to Playa Pucara, at the end of this public walk, starting from Calle Urrutia.

The ultra-modern building of the Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile campus in Villarrica.

In addition, Villarrica has a good program of concerts, cultural exhibitions, bohemian life and multiple services, lacking only – for better or for worse – that the tourism market explores more intensely its tourist vocation. Some examples of cultural activities in Villarrica: the Jornadas Culturales de Villarrica, which are organized in January by the local campus of the Pontificia Universidad Católica de Chile in partnership with the city government; the Festival Noche del Lago, held in February at Playa Pucara; the Erupción Teatral de la Araucania, a theater festival, also in February, a selection of the best of Chilean national theater, with more than 100 plays.

Virtual flyer for the VX edition of Erupción Teatral de la Araucanía

If it's your first time in Chile and you want to understand the people's lifestyle and the rhythm of the city, in Villarrica your experience will be more real and, shall we say, richer.

We have just woken up from a long nightmare and planning trips is a habit that, fortunately, for those who can't live without them, is becoming possible and recommendable again. Since planning is that part of life when the dream is not yet reality, but also no longer just fantasy, I suggest taking advantage of this dream period to think of Villarrica - and Pucón - as a destination to consider.

Translated by Laura Vieira