ANDEAN LAKES VI: PUCÓN

Pucón is a small town in Chile's central lakes region, with slightly more than 28,000 inhabitants situated on the shores of Lake Vilarrica and whose main attraction is the snow-capped – and active – Villarrica Volcano! It is an ideal stop for those who enjoy adventure tourism, trekking, water sports, rafting and canoeing, skiing and snowboarding. It is a city that offers beautiful beaches on the shores of the lake, natural hot springs in the nearby wooded valleys, and is also surrounded by a temperate rainforest.

Panoramic view from Calpulicán Avenue on the Pucón Peninsula

Villarrica Volcano seen from the middle of La Poza Bay

Pucón is a flat town with low-rise buildings and a well-connected infrastructure for tourism. The main artery of this small town is Bernardo O'Higgins Avenue, which is full of restaurants, chocolate houses and tourist agencies. But in the streets that cross this main avenue, the atmosphere is quite similar, especially when we are heading towards the beach of Lake Villarrica, such as, for example, calles Lincoyán and Gerónimo de Alderete.

I have visited the city twice, both times in the summer, the busiest time for tourists, Chileans and various nationalities, especially Americans and Europeans. The vacation atmosphere is even greater in the restaurants, which open their doors to street singers, who play two or three songs and then pass the hat. Another famous musical attraction are the chincineros, traditional performers who dance and at the same time play a bumbo and cymbals that they carry on their backs. Sometimes they play and dance to the music of a barrel organ player, as in this video I shot in the Plaza de Armas, one of the city's central points.

In fact, the barrel organ player is also another traditional figure, not only in Pucón, but in several Chilean cities, as well as in Mexico and Argentina and, more rarely, in other places, such as Brazil, Italy, Germany, Holland... The organillero (organ player) sometimes offers, in exchange for a few coins, little papers with phrases that supposedly have to do with the destiny of the person who receives them, usually delivered by a little pet of the organillero, such as a monkey, a parrot or a parakeet.

Calle Lincoyán with the volcano in the background

Fresia, corner with Gerónimo de Alderete

Playa Grande is the only one you can walk to from the city center. What is perhaps most striking about it is its black sand, which is quite granular due to its volcanic origin. By the way, beaches all over the Andean Lakes region usually have this type of sand. At Playa Grande you can rent a kayak or a stand up paddle for a good price. This is a great option to explore this lake of blue and super calm waters. As the town is very small, you can reach Playa Grande by walking from most of the hotels and inns.

Playa Grande

Lake Villarrica - a 173km², breathtaking blue beauty surrounded by native vegetation - is one of the largest in the region called Araucanía Lacustre, which identifies the country's Andean Lakes region. In Pucón, it is particularly present at Playa Grande and Bahía La Poza, where the pier from which boat trips on the lake depart is located. This small bay is breathtakingly beautiful and offers a privileged view of the Villarrica Volcano.

Small lagoon at the mouth of the creek that flows into La Poza Bay

La Poza Bay pier

Sunset at the pier of La Poza Bay

The main attraction, however, is the Villarrica Volcano, whose summit is at about 2,000m altitude. The Mapuche natives call it Rukapillan, the "House of the Devil". Perfectly conical, it is the most dangerous in Chile – it last erupted in 2015 and is always spewing its smoke. But nothing scares the inhabitants of the city, who, on the contrary, have been able to take advantage of their fame. For several reasons, the two times we were in Pucón we ended up choosing not to climb to the top of the volcano, among them, spending a whole day on this tour, very strong winds, the two-hour walk to the crater, etc. But I assure you that even from below the view of Villarrica is spectacular.

Villarrica Volcano bathed by the sunset at La Poza Bay pier

OUTSIDE THE CENTER

Throughout the year the city offers activities for all types of tourists. In summer, it is ideal for water sports such as windsurfing, canoeing, standuppaddle and kitesurfing, as well as sport fishing. On land, trekking, horseback riding and speleology are some of the options. In addition, there are a variety of other attractions linked to the exuberant nature of the region, most of them just a few minutes from the center, which are worth visiting, such as the Ojos del Caburgua (Eyes of Caburgua) and the Laguna Azul. The two phenomena are interconnected. Both are phenomena of the Caburgua River, which in turn rises in the Caburgua Lake, about 8km further north.

Next to the Ojos del Caburgua is Laguna Azul, another site with a small lagoon with a waterfall and which has a bluish color. Try to do this tour on a clear day, when the sun is high, so you can see the waters with a much more beautiful color.

You can get to Ojos del Caburgua and Laguna Azul by car or bus. If you take the bus, the first one leaves at 8am and the others every hour. The ticket costs CLP 900 (about US$ 1). Just wait at any bus stop on the way (Ruta S-905) and give the signal for the Caburgua line and tell the driver that you will get off at Ojos del Caburgua. The waterfalls are on private property, for which you need to pay a ticket of CLP 1500 (about US$ 2). If you're driving, allow extra Chilean pesos for parking.

To get to Lago Caburgua it's another 6.3km to Playa Negra or 8.2km to Playa Blanca. The lake is another of the region's spectacular landscapes. When we were there, even though it was summer, the day was cloudy and cold, which did not take away from the beauty of the landscape. I was particularly surprised by the large number of huge but very light stones that we found in the passage between Playa Blanca and Playa Negra, certainly of volcanic origin, and also by the profusion of wild flowers. Some of these stones have been transformed into sculptures by some local artist, apparently without having been removed from their original locations. This gives the path a somewhat spooky, but at the same time amusing, aspect.

Passage from Playa Blanca to Playa Negra on Lake Caburgua

Playa Blanca, Lake Caburgua

Sculptures on the volcanic rocks of Playa Negra, Lake Caburgua

Playa Negra, Lake Caburgua

In winter, the main attraction is the ski resort on the slopes of Villarrica, as well as the various volcanic hot springs. Although its infrastructure does not even compare to that of the big Chilean and Argentine ski centers, the Pucón ski resort has slopes with all levels of difficulty, from the beginner to the most experienced. Located northwest of the Villarrica Volcano, the Pucón Ski Center is managed by the Gran Hotel Pucón Resort and Club. It is 1,400m high and has a sports infrastructure with 20 courts for skiers of all levels and nine ski lifts, as well as a structure for food and equipment rental.

Villarrica Volcano ski resort

A slightly more distant attraction, but not to be missed if you have the time, is the Termas Geométricas de Coñaripe (Geometric Hot Springs of Coñaripe). Located 87km from Pucón, these hot springs were built just over 10 years ago as a curious rustic, raw, geometric spa, yet especially welcoming and relaxing. The complex is made up of hot water pools, mountains on all sides and red oriental-style walkways, making for an unmistakable look. In addition to the many attractions it offers, Pucón is surrounded by clubs that take advantage of its hot volcanic waters. The Geometric Hot Springs are just the most beautiful and most visited of these clubs.

In fact, Termas Geométricas belongs to the resort of Coñaripe, which in its turn is part of the municipality of Panguipulli, on the shores of the lake of the same name, 82km to the south. The trip is faster and safer - and therefore more suitable - in summer, with less fog and no snow on the road. But, like its waters that gush at around 45°C all year round, the Termas can be visited in any season.

Geometric Hot Springs of Coñaripe

Inside the thermal baths there are 17 wells, 4 cold and 13 hot, formed by natural springs that run through the mountains. The pools are of different sizes and can be explored from the red walkways, arranged in angles and straights that justify the Geometric of the name. The water temperature in the pools ranges from 35 ºC to 42 ºC.

If you choose not to buy the package in the tourist agencies of Pucón, you can be sure that you will spend much less going on your own. But on the other hand, the trip will certainly be longer and bumpier, and it is necessary to rent a good vehicle – preferably a 4x4 if you go in winter.

Another worthwhile excursion is a trip to the Feria Costumbrista Kui-Kui de Quelhue community, created to showcase the traditions of the Mapuche, an indigenous people from south-central Chile and southwestern Argentina. Also known as Araucanians, they however reject this denomination, given by the Spanish at the time of the conquest, which they consider pejorative and discriminatory.

Ruka (typical traditional Mapuche house) at the Feria CostumbristaKui-Kui.

At the Kui-Kui Fair (Bridge Fair) you can taste typical Mapuche and country food at 18 stands offering gastronomic services and handicrafts in fabric and wood, live music, spinning and wheat milling activities, among many possibilities. In addition, the fair has a mini-museum of Mapuche culture, including a ruka, a typical Mapuche house built with wood and straw, where you can learn a little about the rich cultural values of the Mapuche people.

Pasarela Quelhue, old wooden bridge over the Río Trancura and Quelhue landscape in the background

On a clear day, from the Pasarela Quelhue – an old and charming suspension bridge over the rushing Trancura River – you can have an impressive view of the Villarrica (Rukapillan), Quetrupillan (Shy Devil, in the most accepted version) and Lanín volcanoes. Under the Pasarela Quelhue, the Trancura River becomes a beautiful backdrop for water adventure, and rafting and kayaking are common sights.

Lanin Volcano (left), Quetrupillan (right) and Villarrica (Rukapillan) seen from the bridge over the Trancura River.

Rafting on the Trancura River

WHERE DID I STAY?

In most of our trips, we have opted for either the experience of renting a space with a host registered on Airbnb or, when it is more affordable, renting a house or apartment through this system. Unfortunately, on our first trip to Pucón, in 2016, there was no offer of accommodation that was worthwhile and so we stayed at Hotel Cumbres del Sur, a 3-star hotel on Colo Colo Avenue, at the entrance of the city, almost in front of the Pucón Stadium. The facilities were very comfortable, the staff was attentive and the breakfast was honest. In addition, the hotel is one block from the beginning of Bernardo O'Higgins Avenue, the main artery of the city.

In 2017, still without finding accommodation options through Airbnb, we opted for Donde Egidio Hostal, a much more modest space, generally frequented by younger and more relaxed people, but no less cozy. Installed in a rustic wooden building, the highlights are the friendliness of the owner, his assistants and the homemade breakfast, served on a large table flanked by two long benches, where guests from all over the world, due to the small space, squeezed and fraternized. They were two very different experiences that pleased us just the same.

Obviously, although it is a small town, Pucón is a tourist center. This means that there are dozens, maybe hundreds of other lodging options for all tastes, both in the city center and in more remote areas. It's easy to check out these varied options on services like Booking.com or Tripadvisor, as well as Airbnb.

WHERE DID I EAT?

Pucón also offers a gastronomy for all budgets. As a bonus, you can have the pleasure of drinking great Chilean wines, which will always appear on any serious list of the best wines in the world - some of them at very affordable prices.

As with our accommodation, we also had the opportunity to go to simpler restaurants, seemingly more to the taste of the local population and Chilean tourists, as well as the more sophisticated ones. I highlight here three of these places. The first and also the most popular is Cassis, on Calle Fresia. A mix of coffee shop, snack bar and fast-food restaurant, Cassis is a busy place and brings together both Chileans and foreign tourists. The atmosphere is dynamic, cheerful and relaxed, with fast service despite being almost always crowded. There are places to have more elaborate meals, but their coffee, juices and sweets - especially the alfajor - are a must. This is in addition to the pleasant atmosphere, which is worth a stop.

Another place I liked a lot, for a different reason, was Rincón del Lago. Away from the tourist hustle and bustle, seven blocks from the lake, almost at the end of Calle Urrutia, this restaurant, besides being a beautiful, spacious and pleasant space, has an extremely friendly and fast staff. As if that were not enough, the menu serves typically homemade preparations, simple but tasty. In addition, its price seemed quite affordable to me.

My third suggestion, Senzo Risotto & Pasta, also on Calle Fresia, specializes in pasta, but its menu offers many more options than just Italian food, being, in practice, a restaurant with a varied menu. The atmosphere is very tasteful, with minimalist decoration, which some identify as similar to a dollhouse. Its menu, as the name implies, has risottos, pasta, meat, fish and salads. Another interesting feature is that there you can assemble your plate of pastas, choosing the type of pasta and then the type of sauce. I recommend it!

Well, this long talk of mine about Pucón shows the positive impact that this small and "volcanic" town has had on me. Although people like me – and at my age – don't like to waste time going back several times to places already known, if there is so much new place to visit, Pucón is certainly one of the exceptions on my list.

Translated by Laura Vieira