ANDEAN LAKES V: SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES

Getting to know San Martín de Los Andes was another of those random experiences that turned out much more than we expect from them. My original intention was to visit Pucon, in Chile, and San Martín de Los Andes was a city I decided to stop for a few days only because it was in the middle of the way. However, this unpretentious stop turned out to be a pleasant surprise.

In fact, the trip itself, a 262 km trip in a bus, starting from Baroloche, was already a gift. We made the trip, which took about five hours, with a short stop in Junín de Los Andes, a little further north of San Martín, along National Route 237 to the town called Corral de Piedra (132 km), then along National Route 234 (57,5 km), until we found National Route 40 to Junín (31 km) and from there, still along RN 40, to San Martín (41,5). On this route, our bus drove along long stretches of the Negro, Collón Curá and Chimehuin rivers, with stunning scenery along their banks. It was a pity we weren't in a private vehicle to make strategic stops, at least to get beautiful photos. All the images below were taken with a Motorola Moto G3 smartphone or with a precarious Nikon COOLPIX S5300 hand-held camera while the bus was in motion!

As I said before, San Martín de Los Andes turned out to be a delight. It is everything you might expect from a small town lost in the mountains, with low houses built in stone and wood and a small town atmosphere, but it has as a bonus the beautiful Lake Lácar, Lake Lolog, about 17 km away (which I didn't visit), and breathtaking forests and mountains.

Lake Lácar - the most famous, perhaps because San Martín overlooks its shores - is the last (or, if you prefer, the first) of the lakes of the famous Ruta de los 7 Lagos, a tangle of lakes stuck in the Andes Mountains on the border between Argentina and Chile. But in fact, despite the name, it is possible to see several other lakes on the Route of the 7 Lakes. Officially, the seven lakes are: Lácar, Machónico, Villarino, Falkner, Escondido, Correntoso and Espejo Grande. Here and below, two images that give a pale idea of the Lácar.

I don't know what was the logic that determined that these seven lakes should be considered a set, since in the region, as I said, there are several others, of the most varied sizes, both in Argentine and Chilean territory, such as, for example, the Hermoso, the Traful, the Espejo Chico and the Nahuel Huapi (Argentina) and Pirihueico, Maihue, Ranco, Todos Los Santos, Rupango and Llanquihue (Chile) - just to name the most famous ones. By the way, we cannot forget that this region is known as the Andean Lakes. A simple look at a map of the region gives us a pale idea of its complexity and richness.

Lake Llanquihue, seen from Puerto Varas, Chile

Lake Falkner seen from Route 40, at the point where it connects with Lake Villarino

Lake Nahuel Huapi seen from Bariloche

After a sightseeing tour of the center, with an obligatory stop at Plaza San Martín to observe the movement, I recommend some activity that has the beautiful Lake Lácar as its central attraction. At the Lácar Lake pier, you can rent kayaks or hire a boat tour to Quila Quina.

Villa Quila Quina (below) is a 30 minute boat ride from the port of San Martín or just 18 km drive on good roads. This community has many tempting elements for locals and tourists alike: beach, water sports, hiking, camping, gastronomy, and lots of nature. Those who choose to go by car should know that this area belongs to the Mapuche Curruhuinca indigenous community and that they will have a panorama of unforgettable sceneries.

But it is very important to be extremely careful at the wheel. The road is bumpy and full of curves. If you arrived in San Martin from Bariloche or Villa La Angostura by bus or car, you will probably prefer to take this route and enjoy more splendid views of the Andes and Lake Lácar on another stretch of the famous Route 40. The closest beach to the center of San Martín is Catritre (below, photo from Carioca Sem Fronteiras blog), which is 5 km away, on the same route that leads to Villa Quila Quina. In the summer, you can make the trip by bus. For those going by car, it is important to remember that parking is paid. Many people also go cycling, but it is important to know that there is no bike lane and that the trip is made along the road shoulder.

In addition to these two beaches, Lake Lácar, which has an area of 55 km², offers several other attractions, such as the day trip to Hua Hum, on a route that goes through Lanín National Park towards Pampa de Trompul which is part of the territory of the Mapuche community Cayún, where the imposing peak of Cerro Colorado is located, about 10 km from San Martín. The tour continues to the Yuco Peninsula, with a beach surrounded by myrtle trees. The next stop is Hua Hum, where the lake's water flows into Chile and out to the Pacific Ocean. From there you can take a 30-minute walk to the Chachin Waterfall, with a 20-meter-high waterfall that descends into a pool of clear green water. Important: The boat tours that leave from the Lake Lácar pier run all year round. During the summer it gets dark late: the days last until around 10 pm.

In addition to the activities directly connected with Lake Lácar, it is possible to go on various trips in the woods and mountains of the region: horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking, etc. If your visit takes place in winter, in the Montaña Miramás Park, about 15.5 km east of San Martín, the attraction is a circuit that combines zip-lining with trekking (in winter, with tubing).

Cerro Chapelco is the station's main attraction. It is 17 km from downtown San Martín to get there, which means about 35 minutes on a good road, or 1 hour if there is a lot of snow. Local agencies offer transfers. For those who prefer to drive, care must be taken. Many stretches have no protection, and most accidents are caused by drivers who have never driven in these conditions. In Chapelco there are ski slopes of all levels, for all ages, snowmobile rides, sledding, and hiking with snowshoes. Children as young as 3 years old can participate in recreational activities, and there is a babysitting service for the little ones.

For those interested in golf, the option is the Chapelco Golf & Resort course, which has a breathtaking view.

The Seven Lakes Route tour is preferable in the summer, but it became more accessible during the winter after 2015, when the road, which was previously made by gravel, was finished being paved.

WHERE TO STAY

On our first trip, in 2016, we rented an apartment in a very central part of town, on San Martín Avenue, across from Plaza San Martín, whose owner was named... Martín. The center, by the way, is ten by ten blocks, with the plaza as the central point. The circulation of vehicles is practically nonexistent and, in addition, every driver stops to allow pedestrians to cross. In this area there are bars, restaurants and stores. At the end of San Martín, General Villegas or Gabriel Obeid Avenues you reach Costanera Avenue, which borders the only urban beach on Lake Lácar.

Hostería Las Walkirias

Excerpt of the facade of the Ramón Carillo Regional Hospital, on the corner of Av. San Martín and Coronel Rhode

San José Church, on the corner of NR 40 and Capitán Drury

The following year we opted for a room – quite comfortable – on Calle Los Robles (below), a winding street that begins on Av. Perito Moreno, one of the city's arteries, and winds through a small hill, about 1.5 km from Plaza San Martín. The beautiful house and the warm welcome of the hostess Carla, her son and his companion made us feel, even more this second time, as if San Martín was our home.

But if you don't like the Airbnb system, the hosterías have everything to do with the quiet style of the city and are everywhere. Among the bread & breakfasts, the best rated on Trip Advisor and Booking is La Posta del Cazador. One of the top ones is Hostería Antares. Another suggestion is Hostería Las Walkirias (see photo above), on the corner of General Villegas and Capitán Drury, which seemed very cozy and affordable. There are also several hostels, apart-hotels and cabins for rent.

Outside the center, those looking for rest and tranquility can choose the Río Hermoso, a very charming boutique hotel. The downside is that it is about 28 km from the city center and you will need a car. Much closer, 5 km away, is the Arrayán Hostería de Montaña y Casa de Té, which is also surrounded by nature. From the balcony of its suites you have a beautiful view of Lake Lácar. The prices are good, but the inn is quite simple; there are only four rooms in a hut.

The Loi Suites Chapelco, inside Chapelco Golf area, is very comfortable, with a beautiful view to Chapelco Chico. It is more for those who prefer larger hotels, with more services, such as spa, gym, pool, restaurant, but without losing elegance.

WHERE TO EAT On San Martín and General Villegas Avenues there are many restaurants, cafes and bars - a really great offer for the size of San Martín. The region's specialties are smoked meats and deer, wild boar, and trout in various preparations. The sweet and sour deer at Restaurant Ku, prepared in the parrilla and with local red fruits, is delicious. Another tradition are the picadas – a kind of cold cuts board. El Regional's picadas are very plentiful – enough for 4 people – and include all kinds of homemade smoked meats. El Regional also offers craft beers. I recommend Lácar, which, as the name implies, is made in San Martín.

Another option is the Posta Criolla Restaurant, which offers Patagonian regional food, with lamb and deer as the highlights. In addition, it has a varied wine list and honest prices.

Also not to be missed is the restobar Tío Paco, on the corner of San Martín and Capitán Drury Avenues. It has a charming architecture, a wide balcony on the second floor, many options of snacks and fast food, and a beautiful view of downtown. Another option that pleased us was Doña Quela Restaurant, also on San Martín, in front of Plaza Sarmiento. Its original structure, from the end of the 19th century, in wood painted sky blue, with small windows perhaps do not give the passer-by an accurate idea either of its charming interior or of its delicate and tasty menu. I finish with this last suggestion, among so many others: La Nueva Barra Restaurant, on the corner of Juez del Valle and Almirante Brown. The privileged view of Lake Lácar alone would be worth the visit, but the wild boar with sweet and sour sauce and fried gnocchi and the trout with almond sauce and grisette potatoes were unforgettable - and at a price that was more than affordable.

The night is not exactly the city's strength, but you can end the day with a beer in the bars Downtown Matias and Dublin South Pub (below), with a beautiful balcony where concerts take place some days of the week.

I hope I have demonstrated by A + B that San Martín de Los Andes is one of those must-see destinations. Especially if you like tranquility, stunning landscapes and excellent food.If you plan to visit Argentina, seriously consider visiting the Andean Lakes region (or better - for the Argentine side - Los 7 Lagos). And, if that is your choice, be sure to set aside a few days for charming San Martin.

Translated by Laura Vieira